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housewrap
February 20, 2006
4:26 am
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z-builder
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There is a good article on Valeron in the February issue of Remodeling magazine pg 123. The story first appeared in ProSales magazing.

January 30, 2006
3:11 pm
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peach!!
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this old house doesn''t have a stick on insulation on the main floor (and didn''t have any in the attic walls either, until we finished it).. the studs looked new.. infiltration, exfiltration.. our walls really breath.. (felt over the original wood siding - aluminum over that).. just painting the aluminum siding cut down alot of summer heat gain (or so it seems)..

while it''s far from an energy efficient house, the structure is "healthy".. 🙂

January 30, 2006
1:45 pm
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nimby
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January 30, 2006
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In Eastern WA most folks are using woven polyproylene (like Baricade)but IMHO when all is done right I haven''t seen anything "better" than 15# felt lapped and stapled. Having spent (too many) years in North Alaska, I still look at the vapor barrier inside. The issue was always interior airborn moisture condensing inside the wall at the cold skin. I''ve seen frost inside a stud bay push the drywall right off the studs.

January 30, 2006
5:25 am
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stuccoman
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December 28, 2005
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Properly installed sill pans would cut down on a lot of problems!

January 30, 2006
3:35 am
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stuccoman
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Peach
I was pushing the pactiv products because of the drainage plain it creates along with the 15# felt over it! http://www.green-guard.com
Uncle Bob
You hit the nail on the head! The reason they build them so tight they can''t afford the utilitys/most of them can''t afford furniture! They just want to keep up with the JONES or SMITHS!!

January 29, 2006
6:56 pm
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rosso
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The energy code folks wouldn''t like it but, I know of a way that "guarantees" moisture will dry up and mold elimenated.

Quite using stucco; and quit sealing these homes up and making people sick. A house needs to breath and so do the people living in them.

January 29, 2006
5:50 pm
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peach!!
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right now, we use Pactiv products (although, my recommendation is use felt - so far no one is taking me seriously)..

most places, tk, check that it''s installed per the manufacturer''s instructions (shingle fashion, taping, etc), that penetrations are sealed.. usually catch window flashing at the same time.. (speaking of which, I don''t necessarily agree with solid taping horizontal intersections - if they are properly overlapped - I think skip taping to keep openings for water to escape if it happens to penetrate thru nail holes or something).. one inspector I know requires the contractor to tape the very bottom edge of the house wrap - a BAD idea, imho

January 29, 2006
5:34 pm
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tkr
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Curiously, what are you inspecting, code-wise in this this regard?

January 18, 2006
5:52 am
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rlc
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January 18, 2006
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what type of housewrap are you using? We spec Tyvek. I just want to find a contractor that will install to manufactures recommendations without an argument.

January 13, 2006
5:38 pm
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peach!!
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sp_Print Print Post Post #10

thanks.. I looked at the report.. just wanted some more opinions (just looking for alternatives here.. we''re happy with what we''re using right now.. but since we warranty it, and since building science changes from time to time.. we like opinions from others)

January 13, 2006
5:27 pm
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crcahomeedition
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January 13, 2006
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sp_Print Print Post Post #11

Its ES report looks in order.. we have people in this area use "stucco wrap" for the same drainage properties.

Steve

January 13, 2006
4:54 pm
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peach!!
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sp_Print Print Post Post #12

I''m a little concerned about it''s perm rating.. am looking for input from someone who''s seen it in use.. before I make a decision about it.. thank jboren..

January 12, 2006
8:14 pm
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jboren
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sp_Print Print Post Post #13

haven''t seen it down here