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Trap primer alternative
February 14, 2009
11:22 am
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wizplumber
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February 14, 2009
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Trap primers work great if needed (one can''t pour water in them regularly, or no one is mopping the floors around them regularly, or you don''t want to / can''t install a deep seal trap) and INSTALLED properly: inevitably they are installed off the BOTTOM of the water line, instead of being placed after a debris loop coming off the TOP of the water line--check ALL the codes and the instructions from the manufacturers they all show pictures!!!--think "saddle tee or piercing valve on the bottom of any (especially galvanized) pipe and how short lived those are. I have even seen licensed PLUMBERS, let alone heating contractors installing those piercing valves on the underside even when it was just as easy to install on the top to the furnace humidifier. So many people still don''t understand how the pressure is the same on the top as on the bottom!!!One should make sure to install a debris loop even if it involves some "extra work" which should have been figured into the original estimate.

An associated issue with trap primers is the proper installation of an air gap. Again, think it through--the manufactured air gap won''t protect the potable water supply. Make sure you have at least a 1" air gap above the flood-level rim of the room the trap is installed in. Remember, if there is a loss of supplied potable water pressure by a car/truck hitting a hydrant, a pumper firetruck down the block using ENORMOUS amounts of water, the usual broken main which freezes and thaws and breaks and suddenly your potable water supply is directly connected to whatever is on the floor, or in the sewer you just piped your water to--that floor drain trap which keeps drying up. Can you say backsiphonage, cross-contamination, sickness, death? I am currently in a battle with a contractor hired by our management company over this very thing!

January 23, 2009
4:26 pm
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peach!!
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Ya know.. if you ever deal with waterless urinals.. oil is what they use in the traps..

I guess water passes thru, and the smell isn''t an issue..

January 23, 2009
1:46 pm
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rcurrah
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Baby oil works great also, and smells better.

January 22, 2009
1:57 pm
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keystone2009
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This may not be the most liked solution but you can fill the trap with cooking oil. Now before someone tries to bite my head off and say you have to have a grease trap remember this is mearly an idea.

January 1, 2009
7:05 am
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peach!!
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dump water in the drains from time to time.. problem solved..

November 26, 2008
6:06 am
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freebird67
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November 18, 2008
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Anyone at all?? going once...... going twice.....

November 18, 2008
12:08 pm
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freebird67
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PPP, Precision Plumbing Products, has a wide range of electronic automatic trap primering stations manifolded to handle from 1 to 30 traps at a time. Has anyone had any good luck or bad luck with this type or primering system? After reading up on them, it appears to me like this would be a pretty slick application versus possibly having multiple trap primers at multiple locations needing multiple means of access. I have specified one of these units on a particular project I am currently working on. I like the concept of being able to remotely locate the unit in a janitors closet with the vacuum breaker, electronics, piping manifold, and solenoid valve all together.

September 18, 2007
6:22 am
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maniac
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September 18, 2007
5:01 am
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jboren
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Not the trap, the waste tube (or whatever that thingy pipe is from the fixture to the trap, an upside down Y).

September 18, 2007
4:59 am
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jboren
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I''ve never seen the drip type either, only the type that comes off the cold water and only sends water when the fixture is used, or the one that comes off a trap by gravity.

Continuous drip.....I think that''s my job title these days.

September 17, 2007
5:13 pm
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peach!!
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trap primers are supposed to feed from the cold water supply (I believe).. .but they never work right .. con arb is lucky, I think

September 17, 2007
3:25 pm
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beach
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I have never heard of the type maniac is referring to.....I see the ones that CA and CSL are referring to almost daily. Look for the access doors in the walls.

September 17, 2007
6:59 am
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ggamat
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sp_Print Print Post Post #13

the trap primers used around here are a device like what ConArb has said. an accessible device that connects to the water distribution system and releases a slow drip into the drain receptor.

CSL (Continuous Slow Leak)

September 16, 2007
10:55 pm
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constructionarbitrator
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Maniac:

I don''t understand, I put a floor drain in my sauna bath and since it''s seldom used I put a trap primer in it, I ran a 1/4" copper line to it like they use for refrigerator ice makers and have it just slowly dripping in there, it has worked great for the last 25 years. From what you are saying people are tapping into sink waste traps instead of the water supply? That must be an attempt to save water.

September 14, 2007
5:49 am
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maniac
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sp_Print Print Post Post #15

Peach
The reason why is because the typical trap primer, is just a connection from a nearby sink''s drain so that when the sink is used, water is fed to the trap. If the sink is used infrequently it does not keep up with evaporation. There are some that depend on occupancy sensors or timers, which may workout better.

September 14, 2007
5:29 am
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david caveat
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We are currently dealing with some jurisdictions that have a local ordinance to do away with trap primers and use trap guards or some other approved devices for the reasons mentioned above.

September 10, 2007
5:38 pm
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peach!!
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sp_Print Print Post Post #17

trap primers suck... they don''t work properly .. ever..

deep seals are better.. how much better? time will tell..

August 31, 2007
5:53 pm
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jboren
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sp_Print Print Post Post #18

ditto. Mechanical primers fail, traps sometimes split so they don''t hold water, water goes septic and stinks because trap is not being flushed, blah, blah, blah. I like the new fangled stuff.

August 31, 2007
6:13 am
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builderbob
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sp_Print Print Post Post #19

Not any more than with a trap primer......and a lot cheaper and easier to replace/repair.